Category Archives: Track

BMR’s Knuckle Couplers: Uncoupled

Article by Sal Ciofani

I have been using Kadee O-Scale knuckle couplers for almost ten years.  Because they are designed for traditional model trains, in order to connect them to LEGO trains, I had to literally bolt them on to Plate, Modified 3 x 2 with hole.  So when I heard Brick Model Railroader announced they were releasing Kadee couplers with custom molded, LEGO compatible draft gear boxes, I was very intrigued.

From the beginning, one of the great advantages offered by Kadee’s couplers, besides the realistic look, is the ability to automatically uncouple cars and engines by use of magnets.  This makes realistic switching operations in rail yards or at industries, without the “Hand of God” pulling cars apart, more realistic and enjoyable.  There are a variety of ways to uncouple cars equipped with Kadee knuckle coupler from uncoupling “pics”, permanent magnet uncouplers, and electromagnet uncouplers.  In traditional model railroading the most popular and simplest way to uncouple cars is with an uncoupling “pic”.  Kadee sells #241 Dual Tool – Manual Uncoupling Tool & Built In Spring Pic, any pointed object, such as the LEGO Spear 93789 or a sharpened pencil will work.  I personally use a Wooden Manicure stick, I prefer the type with a flat tip.  To uncouple cars simply insert the “pic” of your choice between the knuckles of cars and twist counterclockwise to open the couplers and push them to the side.  While holding the couplers open with the “pic”, pull the rest of the train away from the car being left.

Examples of useful tools for manually uncoupling BMR Kadee Knuckle Couplers.

Kadee couplers are equipped with curved a metallic air hose detail that doubles as the coupler trip pin.  The magnet attracts the trip pin and moves the trip pin to the side, opening the knuckle and allowing the cars to uncouple.

Couplers in normal operation.

With the couplers positioned over the magnets mounted under the track, the magnets move the couplers to the open position.  The locomotive (left) can now pull away from the car (right) leaving the car over the magnet.

Couplers open and pushed out while over decoupling magnet.

While the coupler is over the uncoupling magnet, the magnet will hold the coupler in the delayed position, knuckle fully open and coupler pulled to the knuckle side of the car.  When to adjacent couplers are in the delayed position, the locomotive can shove the car to the desired spot.

With the couplers still positioned over magnets, the couplers are held in the delayed position.

The locomotive can now shove the car into it’s final position to be left without the couplers recoupling. 

Shoving car with couplers in the delayed position.


The couplers will fully uncouple when slack is allowed in the joint between the two couplers.  To avoid this when retrieving a car that has been left beyond the magnet, or otherwise passing over the magnet when uncoupling is not desired, it is important to maintain tension when pulling, or compression when shoving a train over the uncoupling magnet.  

Couples under tension while passing over uncoupling magnet.

The couplers in the open position remain connected when the connection remains under tension with the locomotive steadily pulling on the train.

Couples in compression while passing over uncoupling magnet.

The couplers in the open position remain connected when the connection remains under compression with the locomotive steadily shoving on the train.

To ensure the magnet can adequately attract and move the trip pin to fully open the coupler, the trip pin must be adjusted as close to the magnet surface as possible, without interfering with between track obstructions like grade crossings or switch tracks.  This is relatively simple to do with a gentle squeeze of Kadee #237 Coupler Trip Pin Pliers – For HOn3, HO, S, On3 & O Scale Couplers, needle nose pliers can also be used, although that method requires twisting the pliers to affect the appropriate bend.

Bending down coupler strip pin.

Using the Kadee #237 pliers to bend the coupler trip pin down.

Bending coupler trip pin up.

Using the  Kadee #237 pliers to bend the coupler trip pin up.

To facilitate ensuring proper adjustment of trip pins, I have made a simple modification to BMR’s coupler height gauge.  

To add a trip pin gauge I removed the bottom plate (shown above the coupler gauge) and added the parts shown below the coupler gauge.

Parts needed for coupler height gauge modification. move 4×8 plate.

BMP Coupler Height Gauge with added trip pin gauge.  Note the coupler on the right has the trip pin adjusted to work best with uncoupling magnets, the left coupler’s trip pin is shown as it comes.   

Modified coupler height gauge.

The modified BMR Coupler Height Gauge in use.  The trip pin gauge helps to adjust the coupler’s trip pin is as low as possible while ensuring the trip pin is high enough to clear obstructions between the rails, such as switches and grade crossings.  

Checking coupler trip pin height.

For those who want a more hands free or automatic way of uncoupling their railcars, there are a number of ways to accomplish this with magnets, between the rails magnets, under track magnets, and electromagnets.  The first magnet I tried was Kadee #308 Under-the-Track Hidden Delayed-Action Magnetic Uncoupler – HO, S, On3, On30, O Scale.  The magnet is slightly wider than the 4 stud track gage of LEGO track.  I cut the magnet and intensifier plate down to four studs wide to fit between the rails while leaving enough clearance for the LEGO train wheels to pass without causing derailments.  I removed a fraction of an inch from either side of the magnet to keep the polarity even.  In order to allow the magnet and intensifier plate to fit flush with the top of the rail of a LEGO R/C straight track, I needed to shave off and file the studs on one of the ties.  I then super glued the intensifier plate to the studless tie and placed the magnet atop the plate.  This magnet worked well, although, I was not completely satisfied with the look of a large magnet mounted between the rails.  

Kadee #308 Under-the-Track Hidden Delayed-Action Magnetic Uncoupler mounted between the rails.


As the name implies, Kadee’s #308 Under-the-Track Hidden Delayed-Action Magnetic Uncoupler – HO, S, ON3, ON30, O Scale, is intended to be mounted under the track.  For larger scales (O scale and bigger) Kadee recommends stacking the magnets with a single intensifier plate.  I tried stacking several magnets atop an intensifier plate, six in total, with no real success.  The stack of 6 magnets is as tall as a section of track on a standard MILS base, making it impractical to incorporate into a MILS module without increasing the height of the MILS module.

I stacked six Kadee #308 Under-the-Track Hidden Delayed-Action Magnetic Uncoupler – HO, S, On3, On30, O Scale.   Not only is the stack too tall to fit within a MILS module, they six magnets did not have enough pulling power to activate the coupler’s trip pin.

6 stacked magnets.


During the Brickworld Virtual Halloween show, the suggestion was made to try Kadee #809 O Scale 3 Rail Between-the-Rails Delayed-Action Magnetic Uncoupler.  The package includes four skinny magnets that are stacked 2×2 and placed on an intensifier plate near each rail.  This method provided great results but requires a deep area between the rails to accommodate the thickness of the double stacked magnets.  This means standard LEGO track will not work, or will have to have ties removed from between the rails.  I had some Me Models rails that I used during my testing, which would be an ideal solution, if they were available.  The area at either end and between the magnets could likely be filled with LEGO ballasting to help blend the uncoupling track section in with the surrounding track.

Kadee #809 O Scale 3 Rail Between-the-Rails Delayed-Action Magnetic Uncoupler.

Kadee also offers  Kadee #810 O Scale Thru-the-Ties Delayed-Action Electric Uncoupler Kit, which is an electro magnet kit to allow the user to electronically control when the magnet is active to uncouple cars.  This would be useful for installing the uncoupler in mainline locations and other areas where accidental uncoupling would be problematic.  I have not had any experience personally with electromagnetic uncoupling.  Electromagnets will require a power source, and a button or switch to activate them. 

Neodymium magnets were also suggested during the Brickworld Virtual Halloween show.  I selected K & J Magnetics BX884 1 1/2″ x 1/2″ x 1/4″ thick Neodymium Block Magnets.  BINGO!  I ordered four of the BX884 magnets and stacked them 2×2 and placed them 4 studs apart underneath a section of ballasted track.  The magnets are just shy of 5 studs long and about 1.5 studs wide.  I used 2x bricks between and at either end of the magnets, and snot bricks with 1x tiles on the outside to prevent the magnets from moving around.  With one plate of ballast between the bottom of the LEGO track piece, and the top of the magnets, I placed tiles on the baseplate where the magnets would sit.  I added plates as necessary to complete the boxes to securely hold the magnets in position. 

The boxes created to hold K & J Magnetics BX884 1 1/2″ x 1/2″ x 1/4″ thick Neodymium Block Magnets.  Note the SNOT bricks with 1x tiles.
The K & J Magnetics BX884 1 1/2″ x 1/2″ x 1/4″ thick Neodymium Block Magnets in the boxes.
The K & J Magnetics BX884 1 1/2″ x 1/2″ x 1/4″ thick Neodymium Block Magnets in the completed boxes.  When the baseplate is attached and the whole MILS module flipped right-side-up, the magnets will rest on the tiles.


It took a bit of checking to make sure I had the magnet polarities oriented correctly to properly open the BMR Kadee couplers.  To correct the polarities only requires flipping one, or both, stacks of magnets over so the correct polarity is pointed up, being careful not to let the one stack from attracting the other.  Neodymium magnets a very powerful, the BX884 magnets have a pulling force of 26.2 pounds each.  They can be quite difficult to pull apart, and can attract each other from a fair distance.   It can hurt getting a finger or skin pinched between two neodymium magnets, and they can break if they come together with too much force.

Once assembled, the results are fantastic!  The BX884 magnets operate the BMR Kadee couplers smoothly and reliably, even under one plate, LEGO Track with filled in tie spaces, and 1×4 tie tiles.  The double stacked magnets also fit easily within a standard MILS module concealing them from view.  

The K & J Magnetics BX884 1 1/2″ x 1/2″ x 1/4″ thick Neodymium Block Magnets will be my magnet of choice for uncoupling magnets in my layout.  I plan to incorporate at least one of these BX884 uncouplers into my current LGMS module and have it available for people to try out at shows, such as Brickworld Chicago, Brickworld Milwaukee, and Trainfest.

A MILS Module with the K & J Magnetics BX884 1 1/2″ x 1/2″ x 1/4″ thick Neodymium Block Magnets seamlessly integrated with other standard MILS modules.

Track Detailing – USA: Part 2

As a continuation from my Part 1 of this series, here are a few more trackside details to get your creative juices flowing!

Lubricator

As Hod Carrier discussed in the UK Track Detailing article, railroads often use grease or other friction modifiers to reduce rail noise and vibration on tight curves (R40 would definitely be lubricated!). These systems consist of a wayside tank and pump, applicators mounted to the rails to dispense lubricant, and wheel sensors to detect an approaching train and begin pumping lubricant. Wheel detectors come in various colors based on the manufacturer, but dark turquoise is a good match for the ones I’ve installed in the past.

Many lubricator installations on North American railroads are out in the middle of nowhere, like an installation I did on the outskirts of Lemoyne, Nebraska (the entire town was the outskirts, honestly…) for example, where hardwired power would be very expensive to install. In these situations, it’s very common to install solar powered units. The dark blue 1×4 tiles on this design are stand-ins for 1×4 tiles with solar panel print (part no. 2431pb499).

Whistle Posts

Whistle posts are another self-explanatory item: when they see the post, the engineer blows the whistle (or horn, but horn post sounds…wrong). These are palced in advance of grade crossings so the engineer can start the telltale horn pattern of a grade crossing: long-long-short-long.

Different railroads have different designs of whistle posts. Most modern ones are signs mounted on poles, but older styles include concrete pillars with a “W” molded into them. In both of these examples, the 1×1 tile is a stand-in for the 1×1 letter “W” tile (part no. 3070bpb031). Usually the concrete post or signs would be white with black letters for better visibility, but the 1×1 letter tiles don’t come in white.

Mileposts

Mileposts are very common on railroads, since there’s an average of 1 per mile. Yes, you read that correct; track and right-of-way realignment often leads to short or long miles rather than redoing the mileposts over the entire line. These markers help train and maintenance crews know precisely where they are on the line (give or take about a mile).

As with whistle posts, each railroad has its own standard design for mileposts. In this design, the 1×1 tiles are stand-ins for the 1×1 number tiles. Placing these every mile (on average 4224 studs, for those of you counting) would be a quick way to add detail to a layout. As with the whistle posts, the signs would typically be white with black letters but the 1×1 number tiles don’t come in white.

Pole Lines

Railroads have a long history in North America, which means they have seen many different technologies come and go. Pole lines played a crucial role in delivering information from one point to another. These lines carried not only telegraph transmissions, but also information for the signal system. I could go into great detail, but I’ll save that for another article and summarize: rail lines are divided into blocks, and each block has an electrical circuit that is on when the block is empty and turns off when a train enters the block. Each wire on a pole line carries that status information along the line to different parts of the signal system.

The wires are connected to the poles with glass insulators (the trans-clear, blue, or green plates), and the pole line would also have wires connecting to every signal and relay cabinet. Here I’m using Lego string elements, but it would almost certainly be more cost effective to use non-Lego thread or string. While pole lines are not commonly used anymore, in many places they were never removed. Abandoned pole lines with broken wires hanging to the ground would therefore also be a great detail on a modern layout.

Tell Tale

Tell tales are another piece of old railroad technology that has succumbed to innovation. In the early days, before trainline braking systems, brakemen would walk the roofs of railcars applying each car’s brakes anytime the train needed to slow down. As you can imagine, life expectancy for a brakeman was relatively low. Tell tales were one of the brakeman’s safety devices: a beam extending over the track above head height with ropes dangling down. If a brakeman was walking the roof of a car and felt the tell tale hit them, they would drop to their stomach immediately! Why? Because tell tales meant that the train was approaching a tunnel or overpass, and warned the brakemen to duck or they would be hit and killed.

This tell tale is a cantilevered type, and is clearly missing the all-important ropes. This design would feature additional non-Lego ropes to support the cantilevered beam, as well as ropes to allow the tell tale ropes to be lowered for maintenance. Like pole lines, though tell tales fell out of use they were often not removed and thus would be great details on a modern layout.

Switch Stand

Switch machines, as shown in Part 1 of this series are a modern item used primarily for main lines and high-traffic switches. For low-traffic switches and branch lines, switch stands are still the best tool for the job. Switch stands are how track workers manually line the switch, by lifting the lever and rotating it 90 degrees. The red and green parts are called “targets,” and they rotate with the stand to communicate the status of the switch to an approaching train: red means the switch is set for the diverging route, and green for the straight route.

Similar to the switch machine, this switch stand design will require a bit of additional ballast extending off the PennLUG standard cross section. There are many designs of switch stands with variations of the target location and design, and the throw (lever) design and location.

Tie Colors and Types

Some railroads paint their crossties different colors for different purposes. Union Pacific (UP) paints a tie blue at every culvert crossing under the track (blue=water, right?). They do this because often the culverts are pretty far down in the subgrade under the ballast, and often the inlet and outlet become obscured by brush. The blue tie helps maintenance crews locate culverts so they can check if they need to be cleared out, thus preventing washouts. Similarly, Amtrak often paints ties yellow when there are gauges or instrumentation mounted on the tie and they want tamping crews to be careful while maintaining the ballast around those ties. The defect detectors shown in the image are from Part 1 of this series. The culvert design is more suited to a MILS module than the PennLUG standard ballast, but the blue tie can be placed independently.

Varying the type of ties on your layout can also be a simple way to add some detail. While branch lines and short line railroads may use exclusively wood ties, most Class I freight railroads (BNSF, CSX, CN, etc.) do not use just one type of tie from end to end. There is a wide variety of materials that crossties are made from, as well as the forms those materials come in. Concrete ties are used for high tonnage or high speed lines; plastic composite ties, synthetic ties, and tropical hardwood ties are used in wet areas where treated hardwood would be susceptible to rotting; and steel ties are sometimes used in yards, as they need less ballast than regular wood ties.

From left to right in the image above:

  • Reddish brown tiles representing wood ties (my personal color of choice for wood ties),
  • Dark tan tiles, representing a tropical hardwood tie,
  • Medium nougat tiles, representing a Fiber-reinforced Foamed Urethane (FFU) synthetic tie,
  • Two versions of concrete dual-block ties, one with studs for the fasteners, represented by light bluish grey tiles and plates,
  • Three versions of concrete ties using different tiles and plates, represented by light bluish grey tiles and plates to for different designs,
  • Two versions of plastic composite ties, represented by black or dark grey ties (on dark bluish grey ballast),
  • Dark brown tiles and plates, representing a steel tie.

Concrete ties come from multiple different manufacturers, each with their own designs. If a railroad had multiple types installed they would typically be in large sections, rather than a mix of different ties. Concrete ties and steel ties typically use elastic fasteners rather than steel plates and cut spikes used on the other types, so the chunkier fasteners can easily be represented with the stud of a plate. Dual-block concrete ties have a steel beam in the middle connecting them, which would be buried in the ballast. Though they have yet to be widely accepted by North American railroads, some railroads are experimenting with dual-block concrete ties. Steel ties are not commonly used on signalized tracks as the rails need to be electrically isolated for the signal system to function properly. Additional variation can be achieved by mixing slightly different colors, like reddish brown and brown for wood ties, black for weathered wood ties and brown or reddish brown for new wood ties, and light bluish grey and light grey for concrete ties.

Some railroads also have test sections of track where multiple different types of ties are installed, with measurement devices monitoring their performance and wear. Shown above is a possible test site, with small bunches of multiple different tie types, relay cabinets housing testing equipment, and a pile of old crossties that were removed from the track, including a broken concrete tie. (See Part 1 of this series for more of the relay cabinet and piled ties) Piles of new ties of any kind would also be fitting!

Hopefully these examples help get some ideas going. Be sure to share photos of the details of your layout to inspire others too!

Track Detailing – USA: Part 1

After Hod Carrier’s wonderful article on UK track detailing, we thought it’d be good to look at track detailing for North America as well. These digital designs represent details found on American railroads and though the designs were based specifically on my experience with railroads in the United States, railroads in Canada and Mexico tend to follow similar practices and use similar equipment. All of these designs are compatible with the PennLUG standard of track building, instructions for which are available for free at l-gauge.org.

Dragging Equipment Detector (DED) and Hot Box Detector

Defect detector is a general term for a number of wayside vehicle monitoring devices used by railroads to inspect the cars in their train as they pass. Some common types of defect detectors include Wheel Impact Load Detectors (WILDs), Dragging Equipment Detectors (DEDs), Hot Box Detectors (HBDs), and Automatic Cracked Wheel Detectors (ACWDs). These detectors monitor the train as it passes over them and log and alert the crew to any defects that are detected, so that the offending car can be scheduled for repair or removed from the train.

Here I’m focusing on DEDs and HBDs. DEDs (at left) consist of sensors mounted between ties that deflect, or bend when a dragging piece of equipment, like a chain, strikes them. HBDs (at right) use an infrared detection system to monitor the temperature of the journal bearings where the car sits on the axle. If the journal is too hot, there is a problem with the axle causing too much friction. These two detector types are some of the most common on North American railroads, and are often sited together. When sited with a DED, the HBD will have guard slopes on either side to ensure any dragging equipment doesn’t damage the sensors.

Lego’s new Slope 45 1×1 Double (part no. 35464) is perfect for the DED. The 2×2 tile represents a junction box where the wires for the detectors would come together before going to a relay cabinet (shown later).

Derailer

Derailers, also known as derails, are installed in places where the consequences of derailing a train or car are less severe than the consequences of not derailing the train or car. The most obvious example would be at a movable bridge: when the bridge is open (raised) the derailer would be set to derail a train, as derailing the train is not as bad as the train crashing into the river below.

This type of derailer is known as a hinged derailer, which sits on top of the rail and lifts the wheel over the rail. These are commonly seen in yards or on industry sidings, to prevent stored railcars from rolling out onto the main line. In the US, the Federal Railroad Administration (FRA) requires industry sidings from main lines to have derailers installed for this purpose. The FRA also requires them to be painted a clearly visible color, like yellow. As the name suggests, the derailer has hinges so that it can be folded into the gauge of the track (i.e. between the rails) so cars can pass over it.

Here’s two versions of a hinged derailer, one in the derailing position and one in the open position. The blue sign is an optional feature, which is typically used when workers are doing maintenance on a piece of equipment. The “open” derailer requires a bit of modification of the track structure in order to get the tooth plate upside-down, but allows for it to be included on the layout without preventing use of a track.

Switch Machine

Mainline switches on most railroads are controlled remotely by a dispatcher, and switch machines have the job of physically moving the switch. There are many models of switch machine produced by many different manufacturers, and this is a representation of just one type.

The switch machine requires a bit of expansion of the ballast section under the tracks. The black tile at the top represents a junction box where the wires go into conduit to be run to a relay cabinet.

Switch Heaters

The purpose of a switch heater is pretty straightforward. Parts of North America are subject to low temperatures and heavy snowfall in the winter, and many switches are susceptible to freezing or getting packed with snow and becoming inoperable. Switch heaters use a wayside generator and ducts between the switch points to blow hot air into the movable part of the switch to prevent freezing of snow buildup.

This design uses the new Bracket 1×1 – 1×1 (part no. 36841) to connect the hose to the ballast section, making it look like the hose is buried in ballast.

Relay Cabinet

Relay cabinet is a general term for wayside electronics cabinets on the railroad. The name comes from the signal relays, or magnetic switches, that they originally housed. Shown here are two types, a smaller, older style at right, and a larger, newer style at left. These cabinets are not used exclusively for relays, and they can be found at signals, switches, defect detectors, grade crossings, and numerous other locations along the railroad.

Using Lego’s door parts allows for the interior of the cabinets to be detailed as well. This one includes a junction box at left, battery backup in white at bottom, and three magnetic relays using trans-clear headlight bricks (part no. 4070) and round plates to represent the magnetic coils. The large cabinet features headlight bricks at the roof representing the lifting points, as these are installed by crane. These features could make for fun vignettes, with signal maintainers working inside the cabinets or using a crane to install a new one!

Piled Ties

Maintenance on North American railroads is often carried out by track gangs; large teams of workers specializing in replacing one component of the track. Typically the materials for these gangs are dropped along the track in advance of them arriving at the worksite. Thus, it’s common to see bundles of new ties and buckets of spikes, clips, or other track materials along the right of way.

Similarly, old ties are often piled or discarded along the right-of-way awaiting a crew to pick them up (or simply being left to decompose). It’s pretty common for these ties to be deteriorated or have plates still attached to them, so in this case studs showing is a good thing!

Hopefully these ideas help get the creative juices flowing and give you some ideas to add detail to your home or club layout!

Track Detailing – UK Outline: By Hod Carrier, Part Two

Every now and then there are some articles online on one of the well-known fora that you just HAVE to share to a broader audience. A while ago my eye fell on an article by Hod Carrier over at the Train Tech forums of Eurobricks. Hod Carrier is no stranger here at BMR, having contested twice on OcTRAINber, and one time almost. Today we present his second part about Trackside Structures, one of my favorite parts of any realistic Lego Train Model Railroad:

Thanks so much for the fabulous feedback that I’ve received so far. It’s really amazing to have prompted such a response.

I’ve been busy adding a few more details which I hope you won’t mind me sharing. Don’t worry, though. I’m not intending on reproducing every single piece of UK rail infrastructure. 

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In order to reduce noise and wear to rails and wheelsets, flange lubricators (sometimes referred to as grease pots) are provided because, lets face it, no-one likes a dry flange. *Ahem*. These automatically apply a small amount of grease to the train wheels as they pass to help reduce friction. These are often found in areas where the route follows tight curves or at junctions.

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When clean these are generally yellow to make them visible, but over time, and through careless refilling, these eventually become black.

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Very simply, this is a drain. At some locations the ground or environmental conditions means that the ballast and formation of the track is insufficient to provide adequate drainage. In this instance additional drains are provided, either at the sides or between the tracks. I won’t insult anyone’s intelligence by showing the design in isolation, as I’m sure it should be clear.

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This is a Hot Axle Box Detector (HABD) together with it’s associated small portable-type lineside equipment building. These detectors are dotted around the network and are used to detect an overheating axle box. These automatic installations sound an alarm at the signalbox and tell the signaller which axle and on which side of the train the defect is occurring so that the train can be stopped and examined.

The central detector between the rails is offset to be nearer one rail or the other to help the system determine which side of the train the defective axle is.

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There are many different designs of point/switch motors in use across the UK, and this is just one of them. It is an older design that has since been superceded but which remains in operation in large numbers across the network. 

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The design does not affect the operation of the switch and should not interfere with passing trains either. I would have liked to have had a go at one of the successor designs, but the studless nature of the standard LEGO points/switch preclude this, although third party offerings may be different.

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All of my designs so far have been made to be compatible with the PennLUG ballasting standard. While it’s great for LEGO modellers by being compact and not too demanding in terms of parts, I don’t think many operational railways would tolerate such a shallow bed of ballast. Certainly in the UK the trackbed is much wider and ballast shoulders are built up at each side.

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I suppose you could call them shoulder pads in that they bulk out the track ballasting to more realistic proportions. There are side sections and centre sections.

Used together for a twin track arrangement (as in the previous picture) the total width comes out at 34 studs, two more than a standard 32×32 baseplate. Consequently I have shown the design split across two baseplates with the centreline as the join. To make this compatible with the MILS modules, the centre section is built in two halves to facilitate splitting of modules into individual 32×32 sections.

Want to see more of Hod Carriers? Just pop over to his Flickr stream to see even more awesome builds!

Track Detailing – UK Outline: By Hod Carrier, Part One

Every now and then there are some articles online on one of the well-known fora that you just HAVE to share to a broader audience. A while ago my eye fell on an article by Hod Carrier over at the Train Tech forums of Eurobricks. Hod Carrier is no stranger here at BMR, having contested twice on OcTRAINber, and one time almost. Today, his piece is about Trackside Structures, one of my favorite parts of any realistic Lego Train Model Railroad:

As we’re all grounded at the moment, I thought I’d use some of the time to have a little look at ways to make subtle improvements to the track. It’s always great to debut a new loco or item of rolling stock, but apart from ballasting the track on which these trains run often gets overlooked. As a train driver here in the UK I thought I’d see how to add the sort of details seen along the lineside in order to add realism, often with only a few parts.

Continue reading Track Detailing – UK Outline: By Hod Carrier, Part One

BMR report: de Nederlandse Modelspoordagen in Rijswijk

De Nederlandse Modelspoordagen (Dutch Model Railway Days) is one of the biggest model railway events in The Netherlands. It has more than 150 participants, ranging from small sellers to huge model displays. The event attracts thousands of visitors each year. I have been a regular at this show since 2018. Around August every year I tend to get get a few phone calls from the organizers of the event asking me if I’m able to participate again, which I of course do!  The organizers of this event feel, like us, that LEGO is also a real model railway scale (and we all know that they’re right!) and a hot topic to attract youngsters into the hobby of scale railroading.

The Setup:

This year Raised and a few other builders tagged along for the ride, which was very convenient because we were given a quiet big space in the venue. The setup this year contained 2 layouts and a TrixBrix stand. The two layouts consisted of a 6-wide LEGO scale layout, and a 8 wide 1:45 scaled layout. The 6-wide layout consisted of Gerard Salden his LWR (Locomotive Workshop Rotterdam) and Station Zwolle by Victor and Fred Beijert. Both showed that you can build incredible and very large models in ‘official’ LEGO scale. The 8-wide layout consisted of Bahnbetriebswerk Neukirche (its final convention before being torn down) and Raised’s Dutch landscape layout.

Raised his layout from above.

The TrixBrix stand had a demonstration layout for there new automation project and a couple of TV screens showing videos of Bananenbuurman. He was also responsible for handing out flyers and giving more information to the visitors. Lastly, during the entire weekend Tamas de Groot was there to help out with our trains and to run around a couple of his 6-wide MOCs.

TrixBrix stand.
One of Tamas de Groot his models, a BR 44.

The tables were inconveniently deep, but that was mostly because they are normally used as market tables for the sales people (none of us have any modular tables as of yet… we should really do something about that). So we had to had climb on the tables to get to a train, which of course always stopped somewhere which you just can’t reach from the front of the layout. If you’re just as flexible as me, it’s a really fun thing to do every two hours.

Backdrop:

Just like we discussed in our LegoWorld 2019 report we used a backdrop for our layout again. We normally use white foamboards. However at this event our layout was positioned in such a way that a few black curtains gave a nice clean black background. We of course took advantage of this by organizing a few photoshoots. Everything went well until Enrico pulled a little to hard on the curtains and almost killed Raised. But hey, that could happen to everyone, right?

One of the many photoshoots we organised during that event.
Those large inconveniently deep tables did gave you the ability to have a birds-eye view of the layout.

Running trains?

Tradition stipulates there has to be one or two accidents at the show. My TEE showed a couple of design problems which have been fixed by now. One was that the streamlining of the motor unit would fall off and land right underneath the train, which resulted in several  derailments. UrbanErwin’s mat 64 liked to lose at least 1 part for every lap that it ran. Oh, and we have to mention Raised his amazing magic trick with his NS 6400. 1 second it was on a siding, the next second it was just gone. At the exact same time, at the floor next to the layout a big pile of red and white bricks did appear. I’m still figuring out how it managed to do that.

UrbanErwin his Mat 64 resting after a long day at the event.
And, gone was Raised his NS 6400
And there was the pile of red-white bricks

Recognizability

We did learn a very important lesson this event. During this 2 day long event we handed out hundreds of business cards and flyers. We had to restock our BMR business cards once every hour. The reason behind this is quit simple: model railroad fans want to look up more information at home, they want to find more information about layouts, products etc. Besides the fact that we had LEGO and a few flyers and business cards, they didn’t really have a clue what we do in the hobby. The amount of questions we had to answer for visitors was just staggering, but a lot of fun to do.

We feel the solution for this problem is adding more information about ourselves to the overall layout, like most of the old-school model railroaders already do, we found out. We do always have some information boards at our LegoWorld layout but those are always provided by the organization. Adding those on a regular base to the layout and maybe even a BMR banner gives visitors a lot more information and, hopefully turn more people towards the dark side, which is also known as LEGO trains!

More trains!

But the wait is over, here are some pictures and a video of our trains in action.

I would like to thank UrbanErwin for trusting us with his mat 64, which is still being held hostage at Raised’s house. It does seem to enjoy itself quite a lot there. Oh, and a thanks to the amazing organization for having us, we can’t wait until next year!

Ciao!

Enrico.

Raised.

Van Buren Yard

Driving south along Route 1 in Van Buren, Maine today, a visitor glancing to the right probably wouldn’t know that they were looking at the remains of the northern yard of the former Bangor and Aroostook Railroad. The tracks are gone, and buildings, at least those still standing, peek out from the trees.

Keeping the past alive, William Dumond has been modeling that rail yard.

William Dumond’s Van Buren Yark – from his Flickr account

We’ve featured his work before, but in addition to building incredible locomotives and rolling stock, Bill is a proficient scenery modeler, as can be seen in his comparison shot of the real Van Buren yard, next to his brick-built version on the left.

Van Buren Yard in 2014 – image from Google Maps, notice the white warehouse to the left, and the yellow building through the trees.

Looking at a Google Maps image of the area, it’s easy to find the buildings featured on the layout, and to get a sense of the tracks that used to run between them. The layout has a nice organic look, matching the prototype, and staying away from the rigid blockiness of some LEGO layouts.

Custom Turnout Switch – from William Dumond’s Flickr gallery


One of the most interesting things about the model Van Buren yard is the use of a custom switch, documented on Bill’s Flickr account. This switch flows nicely, and really adds to the realism of the scene.

For more of William Dumond’s Van Buren yard, as well as more of his Bangor and Aroostoock work, check out his stream on Flickr. We’ll be looking forward to watching the progress on this one!

A New Train!

It seems that lately TLC is really trying to release train sets outside of the Lego City theme and by doing so, trying to tap in more different categories of kids that come into contact with Lego trains. All of them use train wheels and fit on Lego track, which is great compared to the old times (I’m looking at you, Time Cruisers 6497!) For example, we have seen several Hogwarts Expresses, but also the Lone Ranger and Toy Story trains. Of course, even more than the Lego City trains, these are aimed at kids as a toy, to actually play with them, and just have them run around. Also, they tend to not have any PUP or PF on board, but can be motorized quite simply (it’s Lego after all).

This week, Lego released a new child in this family, as part of the Hidden Side-theme. Lego is planning to have this theme be a fusion of Real Life and augmented reality (AR), by using apps and whatnot. For more information on Hidden Side, I recommend you have a look over at TBB, who posted the whole press release plus some extras.

For us here at BMR, there is of course only one important thing: set 70424, better known for it’s highly creative name: “Train”.

Photo by The Brothers Brick
Photo by The Brothers Brick
Photo by The Brothers Brick
Photo by Zusasmmengebaut
Photo by Zusammengebaut
Photo by The Brothers Brick

So, what’s new, and what’s interesting for us as trainheads? Well, let’s shortly summarize:

  1. A new train piece! It seems to be a re-railer, meant to easily get your trains on the track. Since this set only has about 3 pieces of straight track, meaning that it’s meant to play with without track to begin with, this is a great addition to playability. Even more for kids, because now you can run your trains both on the track and seperate from it, without having to fysically remove it from the tracks. For us as trainheads this can be very interesting as well, I for one always have troubles getting my trucks properly on the rails!
  2. “New” couplings! As we all know, the new style of Lego Train Magnets is pretty weak. There is a solution by using 1×2 plates to connect them together, but it seems that even for Lego this wasn’t a viable option anymore. So, they are now using ball-joints to keep the wagons connected in a more durable way. I have the feeling this is just meant for this specific set (also because there is indeed a Lego Train magnet available on the end of the train) but it’s interesting to see nonetheless.
  3. It’s an American Diesel! Yes, it’s not going to win any beauty pageant, but still, after the last two European-styled trains, it’s a nice addition for kids that live across the Great Pond.
  4. A black Front Window and black Train Doors! Now I have to be honest, I have never used either of both, but I’m pretty sure some of use will love this.
  5. The number on the loco says 30877, even though according to the box-art its supposed to be 70424. Knowing Lego’s style to just put the set number on their trains, this seems to be an interesting decision, even more because the number 30877 also doesn’t exist as a set…
  6. It’s also a monster, it seems 😉

Anyways, I know this might not be the absolute masterpiece that some of us are always waiting for, but I’m really glad to see Lego is incorporating trains more and more in their other themes. When you ask me, the more trains the merrier. So, what are your thoughts about this new set?

BrickTracks Announces The R104 Switch Tracks KickStarter Campaign!

And now for some awesome news!

BrickTracks, the company behind those injection-molded R104 and R120 (with R56 now available for pre-order) curves has finally launched a Kickstarter campaign for R104 switch tracks.

I won’t be going into every detail in this post, as everything is explained on the campaign page, but here’s a run-down of what’s going on:

Continue reading BrickTracks Announces The R104 Switch Tracks KickStarter Campaign!