Tips and Tricks: Make Your Trains Run Better

Everybody who exhibits at a convention or show with their LEGO models is probably asked this question multiple times: “How do you get your trains running so good?” There are multiple answers to this question, and it’s difficult and annoying to summarize them all. At conventions, I probably answered this question 10 times an hour, so I decided to compile it into an article: a small list with tips and tricks to make your trains run better.

Control Systems

There multiple control systems in for LEGO trains. For the sake of this article I will skip the old 12V system. The 9V system is one of the most reliable in the LEGO world. Plug them in, turn the dial, and it goes. The biggest problem with the system is that it’s been decommissioned around 15 years ago. So, the prices are getting quite high and parts are difficult to come by. Beside that, it’s one of the most reliable and easiest to use.

The Power Function system was introduced back around 2007. Let’s not get into the complicated history, but in short, the system used a receiver and a remote. The first version of the receiver had a very complicated fail system intended to make sure no child (or adult) was able to overload the train. By having that fail system, the older PF receivers aren’t that useful for powering trains. Newer versions of the PF receiver’s including the V2 version could handle more power. The biggest problem of PF is that it uses infra-red, which has only got a range of around 3-4 meters.

Using a different receiver isn’t the only option you have when using the PF system. There are multiple third-party options. Including Sbrick and PFx brick. These third-party options give the option to drive your train by using Bluetooth instead of infra-red (with PFx offering both). Therefore, you have more range than the 3-4 meters infrared has. Secondly, there are more options for setting up the drive abilities to achieve greater realism for your trains. It’s difficult to describe that in one article, so I’ll leave a couple of links down below to websites that provide more information.

Powered Up is the newest option for powering your models. I don’t have a lot of specific tips and tricks for this system but I highly recommend using the “The Lego Train Project” control software.

Ball Bearings

Ball bearings are small metal rings that make your trains wheels roll with almost negligible friction. Because of this, the wagons ride smoother and don’t put up as much resistance behind your locomotive. Therefore, your locomotive can pull more wagons at a higher speed.

I personally use the MR52ZZ ball bearing. There easy to come by ad specialize stores and online website. If you want to safe time and energy. BMR provides fully assembled sets.

Weight

One of the biggest problems that train builders face is that trains have problems with friction. A good example is the official Lego Christmas Train (10254), the trains looks beautiful but the train can’t run at high speed. The reason for this is quite simple, the engine itself is light so it’s not able to grip the rails and get enough traction.

A simple solution for this is making your locomotive heavier. For this there are multiple solutions. Here are some that I know off and have used in the past:

Battery box: One of the easiest options is placing the battery box on top of the motor. This provides enough weight for the motor to get enough traction, biggest problem is that most of the locomotives don’t have enough room for the battery box to be on top of the motor. This usually works best with a PF train motor or similar setup.
Boat weights: LEGO has made a couple of weights in the past for their boats, one of the best to use for trains is part 73843.
Spare change: Tape some rolls of spare change together and place them on top of the motor.
Weights for fishing rods: These are small and easy to come by.

Gerard Salden rebuilding his “FLying Dutchman” Vectron. This model is a great example that even in small moc’s you can use weights.

The finished model, the model uses multiple weights for fishing rods and it’s thereby able to pull rater large trains compared to it size.

Rubber Bands

The second method for gaining traction is using small rubber bands. By placing small and thin rubber band around BBB (Big Ben Brick) wheels, for example, give the wheels more grip with the track. There are different rubber bands you can use. I personally use old bicycle tires (since I live in The Netherlands they’re are easy to come by here). I cut them in small pieces which can be easily placed around a BBB wheel.

The inside of old bicycle tires create more traction for your models who use BBB wheels.

Illegal Tricks

Reader be warned: unconventional techniques lie ahead. The main reason I call these techniques “illegal” is that there is possibility to damage your LEGO.

Glue: Yes, glue might be one of the most hated things to use with LEGO. It has pros and cons, but sometimes LEGO itself does not have enough clutch power. So, glue may be a good option.
Silicone spray: silicone spray is corrosive to Lego so it’s dangerous to use with Lego. But if you use caution you can use it as lubricated with Technic gears and make them run smoother.
Editor recommendation: I prefer Labelle 107 lubricating oil, which is safe for plastic. – Glenn

For more information, I redirect you to the following websites:

PFx Brick: https://fxbricks.com/pfxbrick/

SBrick: https://www.sbrick.com/sbrick

Batteries Tips: https://brickmodelrailroader.com/index.php/2019/08/21/alternatives-to-the-lipo-battery-box/

LEGO Train Project: https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/169318-control-all-your-powered-up-power-function-sbrick-devices-with-a-single-software/